Stephanie and I drove down 1st and parked near Spokane and took our bikes over the currently restricted lower West Seattle bridge and commenced on the Duwamish River trail. It’s been years since I’ve done it, and remembered thinking then that, for a trail by a river, it was a wasteland of a ride all the way to South Park. But now I’ve learned enough since then to appreciate the magnitude of the industry here, and the winding majesty it replaced.
What is
that five mile industrial channel between recycling pits and container yards?
It’s what remains of the Duwamish River. The River that Made Seattle suggests that had Se’alth rebelled with others in the Indian Wars that followed
the scornful 1855 treaties with Isaac Stevenson, he might have won claim to
lands for the Duwamish people, as did others like the Nisqually under Leschi,
whose meager reservations set aside by government were expanded to better lands and waters. But Se'alth did not
follow Leschi into battle and sided instead with white trading partners; and now
the Duwamish remain refugees on their own ancestral lands, a solitary longhouse
on the side of East Marginal Way.
Stephanie
and I spent most of our time in the park across the street from the longhouse—Herring’s
House Park, on the grounds of the former village of basketry hat from 500 A.D. The
lone, remaining curve of the Duwamish River is there, bending the park, with Kellogg
Island, the dredged piece of land between the curve and the machine straight
channel, on the other side. Since 1970, people have worked to restore habitat,
and a sign there made me realize the grass and marsh trees aren’t reserved principally
for people; it serves osprey and beaver and salmon even more urgently. Nature
has been so effectively thieved and repurposed that parks I thought were
recreational are desperate habitat instead.
To get
to the park, Herring House Park in one name, T-107 in another, one must
circumnavigate trains, tractor trailer yards, alleys of fenced-off homes, buckled sidewalks, and then cross a roaring five-lane arterial. This is the first two
tenths of a mile of the Duwamish River trail. Here is the park. Across the
street, the longhouse. And the remaining bend of the river, here. Everything
else is steel and slurry, concrete silos and razor wire. To imagine this place
ever habitable to people up and down the tide flats or to envision these waters
navigated by cedar canoes among barges acres long is just too much for the
mind. Of the ancestral paths and trading posts, even in this hard-won oasis of cormorants
and clam shells, only industrial pathways remain.
In the park, there are plaques that unwind a story: A salmon wants to swim up the river, but an older, wiser salmon warns that the river is bad. There is an otter, and it will eat you. There is a bear, and it will grab you. There is a man with a spear, and he will spear you. The river is bad! But the salmon wants to swim. The fish jumps over the otter, under the bear, and through the man with a spear. The river is good! So many obstacles the salmon must overcome. But what if the river itself is yanked straight and dredged deep and barrels of chemicals invisibly leech through sediment and there are fish with bellies of iron the very size of rivers themselves?